Soup season is dead (long live soup season!)

plus a chilled sesame broth with ponzu tomatoes

Title of this post has two reasons!

1. Soup season (which the mainstream would consider a fall/winter) is over. We’re careening into summer over here - heatwaves across Europe and the US. It’s hot and it’s steamy. You might even say that soup season is dead - to which I say think again. More on that below.

2. Soup season, this publication, is (briefly) dead. To all of my beloved paid subscribers: in order to move my Substack from the UK to Germany, I need to cancel all paid subscriptions. To say this is inconvenient would be an understatement lol but in the spirit of accepting things I cannot change: c’est la vie! You will be issued pro-rated refunds. I will put the paid tier on ice for the time being and let you know once it’s up and running again. Maybe/hopefully see you again then!

This is a soup that works with the seasons: serve it cold, lukewarm, or hot. The toppings are endlessly customisable. Tomatoes and cucumbers felt fitting for a hot summer day. On a frosty winter night, I imagine roasted mushrooms and a jammy egg would go nicely.

I’m not sure which part of this bowl is my favourite - the broth or the tomatoes. Summer tomatoes are perfect as is, but when they marinate in a ponzu mixture for a while (overnight is best) they enter a new flavour realm.

Serves 4

Tomatoes

• 1 cup cherry tomatoes

• 1/4 cup ponzu

• 2 tablespoons sesame oil

• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar

For the broth:

• 8 tablespoons tahini

• 4 tablespoons sesame oil

• 4 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

• 4 tablespoons chili crisp

• 4 tablespoons miso paste

To assemble:

• 4 bundles udon noodles

• Sliced spring onion

• Sesame seeds

1. Start with the tomatoes. Bring a large pot to boil, cut a little “X” onto the top of each tomato, then gently lower them into the boiling water. Let them boil for 1 minute, then remove and chill in cold water. Now you can peel them easily!

2. Add the ponzu, rice vinegar, and sesame oil to a glass jar. Plop the peeled tomatoes inside and allow them to marinate for a few hours or overnight.

3. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions, then strain and set aside.

4. Mix the tahini, sesame oil, tamari, chilli crisp, and miso paste until a paste forms. Stir in a splash of boiling water, then follow with 250ml (1 cup) of very cold water.

5. Cook your udon noodles according to the package instructions, assemble your bowl, and add in a few ice cubes for an extra chilly effect.